Modern and Traditional Embroidery Dress

Olá! I truly believe that traditional embroidery from Portugal tells the history of our country… And you already know how much I like my patterns to be inspired by Portuguese traditions and culture… Of course I love many other types of embroidery motifs, but I have to say that the ones rooted in the “Portuguese soul”  inspire me the most…

I believe you also have those unique kinds of patterns that are special to you… Haven't you?

The pattern I bring today is not a traditional one but it reveals a bit of Portuguese history and a lot about Portuguese culture.

It was inspired by a pottery piece from Alentejo and embroidered by Maria Alice. And it was the perfect tip to show you a little more about my country…

Olives and Olive trees

The olives reproduced in that simple and beautiful embroidery takes part of our gastronomy, agriculture production (Portuguese olive oil is among the best of the world), crafts - using olive trees' wood or ceramic  - and even popular music (one of the most traditional songs here sung by Portuguese singers)...

Traditional Pottery Inspired by Olives...

Our Mediterranean type climate is very supportive of the growth of olive trees and olive oil, obtained from the fruit of the olive tree, has been produced in Portugal for many, many years. There is evidence that olive trees existed in Portugal back in the Bronze Age and the exportation of olive oil dates back to Portuguese maritime explorations.

Did you know that an olive tree can live thousands of years? And that Niel Armstrong left a golden olive branch on the moon as a symbol of peace?

Olives embroidered by Maria Alice

As you see a very simple pattern can be full of meaning... That's another reason why art, in this case, embroidery, makes our lives so special...

Olá! This week I'll be brief... Only to show you two more images of fiancé kerchiefs inspirations...

The first one is a framed fiancé kerchief. It is monochromatic what is not so usual... The same embroiderer from last week.  It is very common that these kerchiefs have some embroidered messages. A long time ago they were embroidered by girls that often did not know how to read or write...  But they were in love and still they wanted their beloved to know that... So it is very usual, and now a tradition, these kerchiefs being full of misspelled words (in Portuguese: erros ortográficos)... Sweetly naif... That's what happens with this kerchief... Nowadays being able to write with this naif mistakes is almost an art and this one is a very sweet example.

Embroidered by Maria Alice

In correct Portuguese it should be: Há-de a nossa amizade acabar quando esta pomba voar. Instead we read: Hade a nossa amizade acabar cando esta pomba boar...
In a very, very free translation and adaptation... "Will our friendship end when this dove fly" With some misspelled words... "Wil our friendship end wen this dove flie"... I confess I don't know the most "popular" English misspellings... I believe all languages have them :)

Work in Progress...

This other photo shows the work I have in hands... I've finished the patterns inspired by Portuguese Fiancé Kerchiefs that I was working on and they will be available soon... I'm happy with them. I had the help from a very talented friend!!! I used the motifs to decorate a child blouse. As soon as it is ready I'll show it again. I'll keep my promise!!

Olá! In the past weeks I've been working on some Portuguese traditional patterns, trying to gather some motifs that I want to make available. Fiancé kerchiefs were the first ones to claim my attention. I've done some research, trying to understand which are the most authentic motifs, the ones that respect the certification process that now rules this type of embroidery.

I share with you some of my finds...
There are not very precise rules for the motifs nor for the colors... However, love is the most important source of inspiration and primary colors are the most common. Tracing appears to be very asymmetric on the popular kerchiefs and the triangular interpretations predominate. There is a list of stitches that are accepted but I would say that stem stitch is really the one that characterizes this regional embroidery, followed by satin stitch.

Soon I'll tell you more about the most typical symbols found on this type of embroidery... Today I bring you some very simple but beautiful pieces of embroidery using patterns inspired by fiancé kerchiefs.

They were brought to me by a dear neighbour that lives down the street. They were embroidered by someone that has mãos de fada (fairy hands) an expression we use describing someone with a special ability and talent for handwork... Her name is Maria Alice. And they were not gifts of passion but gifts of friendship.

Hearts - one of the most popular symbols used in fiancé kerchiefs

A very small fiancé kerchief - together forever, year of 2007

To keep a jar of jam...

Olá! Today is a giveaway day!!

My shop, agulha não pica has been searching for Portuguese embroidery supplies and researching their history and I am now very happy to announce that we'll become a very proud seller of embroidery pearl cotton size 8 and pure line fabrics. Both made in Portugal!

Some weeks ago I talked about Limol pearl cotton and last week I introduced you to the long lasting tradition of linen production in Portugal.

This week agulha não pica is giving you the opportunity to see the beautiful colors of the pearl cotton with your own eyes and feel the amazing touch of pure linen with your own fingers...

From now on you'll be able to find in agulha não pica's etsy shop both light weight and heavy weight Portuguese linen, made in Guimarães - a region well known for the excellence of its linens for more than one thousand years... And a new pack of embroidery cotton pearl, size 8 is available now, too.

To celebrate the good news, agulha não pica will be offering a pack of embroidery supplies with Portuguese soul... One fat quarter (20"x20") of heavy weight linen and one fat quarter (20"x30") of light weight linen with a beautiful box of six pearl cotton balls size 8 and two Portugese traditional patterns printed on tracing paper.

"Embroidery supplies with Portuguese soul" - which regional embroidery has inspired the color choices?

And agulha não pica is so delighted and proud that we will also be giving a box with six balls of cotton pearl size 8: blue, white, gray, black red and ecru...

Olá! This week I'm coming back to Guimarães embroidery... I hope you don't mind :)

Many years ago the stitches that are known today as Guimarães embroidery were used to embellish the rural woman’s blouse and working tailed waistcoats and the shirt of the farm worker (even richer than woman’s). 

The shirts were worked on thick coarse linen, profusely using bullion knot stitch in quite an original manner. White was the dominant color but in the shirt-front red was also used in some details. The same applied to the tailed waistcoat, on which red, blue, or black were used separately. 

Farm worker shirt.

This was truly a popular type of embroidery and by saying “popular” what I really mean to say is that this type of embroidery was made by the people, for the people - do povo para o povo.
Experts argue that this “popular” embroidery is the most original regional embroidery in Portugal. The shirts from the peasants “give us the impression of something absolutely different” from any other Portuguese or other countries’ regional embroideries.

Rural woman's blouse

Maria Clementina found the right words to describe it: 
“of such graceful design and so beautifully embroidered that it could easily compete with a more aristocratic piece. Many peasant embroideries, made for personal use and not for sale, are so carefully worked as to be technically perfect. This works is done during the short intervals between their heavy labor in the fields and in the home, with the loving care bestowed on work destined to last several generations.” 

Tailed Waistcoat.

Today, Guimarães embroidery is used in tablecloths, valances, napkins, doilies, sweetheart’s handkerchiefs and many other pieces that embellish the home, and also in accessories for ladies and children. This work begun in the middle of the 20th century, adapting shirt’s motifs to house linen. Unlike the popular embroidery from which it stems, it is not made by the people, for the people, once it is executed by professional embroiderers. As it is very time consuming it became expensive, not accessible to all purses, ending to be a ”rich embroidery” ... 

But we have good news… The interest in learning traditional stitches from Guimarães is growing and we hope that, soon, it will return to “the people’s” hands…

*In this post I've used four books on Portuguese embroidery - Traditional embroidery of Portugal; Guimarães Embroidery - a renewed tradition; Bordados e Rendas de Portugal; Embroidery and lace in the house linen of Entre Douro e Minho

Olá! This week I'm back to traditional Portuguese embroidery, bringing you one of the most famous Portuguese regional stitches. Guimarães is an incredibly beautiful and historical city known as the "birthplace of the Portuguese nationality" or "the cradle city" (Cidade Berço in Portuguese).

Guimarães Embroidery is known worldwide and I believe that it is due not only to the beauty and originality of its stitches but also to the work carried out in divulging it. And a very special book has its credits... It's not easy to find information about Portuguese embroidery in English and this special book not only is written both in Portuguese and English but is also available online. You'll find Guimarães Embroidery - a renewed tradition here. And if you want to know even more don't forget to read here, where you'll find instructions on the stitches and some videos.

I'm not going to review the book... I don't dare!!! Because two of my favorite embroidery experts have already done it!! What a coincidence!! After buying this book, Avó Méri explained, both in Portuguese and English, why she believes this is a great book to have in your library. And some months later, while visiting USA, Avó Méri mailed it to Mary Corbet allowing her to review what she calls a "gorgeous book".

I leave you with some photos of this incredible book - beautiful pictures, great design and thorough information. I'm happy to share the photos with you and even happier knowing that you can read the book, at least online... Hope these pictures help to make you curious...

Olá! This week I'm showing you a treasure... My treasure!
I took some photos of a very special gift I received from my grandmother some years ago, her last present before she died. I have many more embroidered table linens and bed linens, gifts from my grandmother, ever since I was a child. Some were made by her creative hands... This was not... But it is very, very special for me.

I love the beautiful Portuguese linen... Daisies are my favorite flowers and full of meaning for me... And the simplicity of the embroidery technique surprises me. You don't need more than satin stitch to make something so charming... Of course I could not make such a perfect job... You can't imagine the perfection - it's so difficult to distinguish the back side...

Daisies with satin stitch - my photo

I'm showing my treasure to challenge all those that have treasures at home like this, embroidered by Portuguese hands...

If you are Portuguese, if your parents or grandparents are (or were...) Portuguese the probability of you having an embroidered treasure at home is very high! And I'm challenging you: "embroideries out of drawers"...

Choose your favorite piece of embroidery and tell us the story behind it... Why is it so special for you? Take a beautiful picture and send it to me... I would love to show the world how Portuguese embroiderers are so talented and how many stories can be told by embroidery stitches.

My treasure - embroidered linen table cloth - my photo

Do you accept my challenge? Don't forget... Embroideries out of drawers!!! Wherever you are... I'm waiting for your help and together will show how Portuguese stitches make Portugal so special and well known all over the world.

If your stitches are not Portuguese they are welcome too... Share with us a linen or embroidered item that has a special meaning for you... Do you have embroidered stitches that tell a story? We would love to know about them...

You can either upload your photos to our Flickr embroidery group or e-mail me at agulhanaopica@gmail.com.

Olá! This week I bring you embroidered hearts with Portuguese Soul... From three very different embroiderers I've found very beautiful pieces paying a tribute to the importance of the heart pattern in Portuguese traditional embroidery. Today love is in the air...

Of course linen has been the traditional support for Portuguese embroidery. But as times changed new materials were used and Vânia, from The spotless loop, uses a very original one... Wood!!! She loves to draw using thread as the pencil and wood as the paper, resulting in a very "textured" and appealing "drawing", a true tactile experience (sometimes a Zen experience, too).

And she went further with that tactile experience with an original collection of braille jewelry. In her words: "creating jewelry for whom can't see but can feel incredible well, was a great experience. "  Follow the links, I can assure you'll also like her work on wall decor and handmade jewelry.

Would you like to know how Vânia embroiders on wood? See here and you'll become aware of what might happen if you try doing the same...

Embroidery on wood inspired by Viana's hearts, by Vânia

I have to admit that the most difficult job so far was to choose one photo from Joana's work. I'm a profound admirer of her stitches... Maybe because it's so easy to identify the influence of Portuguese traditional embroidery and culture but still her embroidery is completely different from anything we have already seen.  No doubt her stitches have a Portuguese soul...

Joana uses embroidery, buttons, and crochet to make necklaces, brooches, and headbands.
I love how she can be as great in simplicity as with profuse stitching, in blue, in red or using both. She is a great photographer and an inspired designer, too. 

Once again I don't know how to explain why I've chosen this photo to illustrate Joana's work, but I believe my heart was touched by that heart and the fiancé kerchief, both so typically Portuguese.

What else can I say? No words would be enough... I know you will not resist to browse her blog- Jubela, follow the link!

Embroidered heart and fiancé kerchief, by Jubela

Felizarda's hearts, in her blog

And "with love in the air" I've finished this series of New Stitches with Portuguese Soul... And I'm so proud of all the great embroiderers I've found!!!

Olá! One more week proudly showing the work of inspired Portuguese embroiderers...

Maria João says that detailed and delicate works make her happy... And her embroideries tell us exactly that... Her cross stitch,  blackwork and shisha bracelets are gorgeous... And her felt creations are full of precious details. Browse her brooches (don't forget the butterflies) and her small purses, you'll love them!! But I've chosen a very special pattern. Our beautiful Portuguese "japoneiras". In her blog, erratic needle, she explains everything about it...

Japoneira brooch by erratica needle

This was the first embroidery hoop project of Dorinda, from Mãos e Manias (hands and manias). She was challenged to use the hoop as a frame and she thought that it reminded her of a little aquarium... The mother of pearl fish button was the perfect choice and I love how she combines felt and ribbons. Such a sweet aquarium... But she uses her needle in many other projects giving them original applications, like brooches, boxes, barrettes and organizers. 

Aquarium embroidered by Dorinda

These beautiful embroidered slippers are made by Teresa Cunha, who has no computer nor internet access. But no problem with that as her marvellous work is shown to the world by the artist Ana Ventura. I remember the first time I saw them and how long I took to view one after the other... All different, each one more beautiful... I love the simplicity and the details of some... The autumn look or spring look of others... I love the linear and the rustic looking and the colors' choice... In blue or using the most sweet color, they are always charming!

Embroidered slippers by Teresa Cunha, photo by Ana Ventura

Next week I'll end "new stitches with Portuguese soul" with love in the air...

Guimarães Embroidery, by Bárbara, blogged.

Embroidered little boxes by Vânia, blogged.

Donalberta is an incredible example of how families can work together passing traditions from generation to generation and gathering different knowledge to make something new. In this case, mother and daughters use their skills in stitching and communication to take their project further. You'll find some traditional pieces of embroidery, like the fiancé handkerchiefs or the handmade bowls, but also original applications of old stitches like the dresses of Berta (the doll) inspired by Guimarães or Azores Embroidery or the beautiful bookmarkers. And here you'll find more...

Berta's dress inspired by Guimarães Embroidery, by Donalberta

This amazing neckwarmer is also a great example of how joint efforts can have unpredictable results. The mold of Alice's charming neckwarmers and the stitching of "the girls" (also mother and daughter) from ponto margarida (daisy stitch) created something unique. As always, Alice could not resist to follow all the production process of this piece, beginning in the linen fields. As she usually says" the process is an end in itself" and I believe this was the inspiration for an incredible project (really worth reading - some are translated into English) named "Saber Fazer", where she describes and beautifully illustrates artisanal and semi-industrial production techniques in Portugal. You can get to know Alice better in her blog, noussnouss.

Each week I'll be more and more proud to show you all these inspired stitches with Portuguese soul! Feeling happy!!!

Solitaire and gold fishes, from Ana's Flickr

Sofia is her real name but in the blogosphere she is Tayari, a borboleta serrana (the mountain butterfly). Her love for Serra de Sintra justifies both this name and the blog that she writes "between the mountain and the sea", ponto sem nó (stitch without knot). She is a passionate embroiderer. Do you imagine how many hours has she spent cross-stitching? She loves teaching and sharing her incredible knowledge. And I love how she mixes tradition and modern patterns.

I've chosen this image because it remembered me of Portuguese ceramic tile. And I was right... This was a gift to someone passionate about Lisbon's ceramic tile...

Cross stitch "ceramic tile" pattern, by Sofia.

Beautiful stitches from Violeta's dress.

I'll continue searching for beautiful Portuguese stitches just for you...

Olá! Last months I've been talking about Portuguese embroidery from "old times", but I would like to begin this year showing new and fresh stitches from "our times"... As so, for the coming weeks I'll fill these posts with the works of very different embroiderers that have in common their Portuguese soul.

While trying to introduce each embroiderer and their stitches I felt how poor my English is... I would need many more adjectives to describe how I feel about them! But I'll do my best!

And I will begin with the most difficult job... Introducing Avó Méri  (grandmother Méri - aunt Méri for me) is not easy. I need more time and I will have it soon... You have my word! For now I would like to tell you that I believe she is the best ambassador possible of Portuguese embroidery. Her work and fidelity to our stitching traditions are known worldwide... And it's even more difficult to choose one of her pieces of embroidery. Her hydrangeas would be perfect, the linen bags embroidered with a kind of baker's twine are truly original and what to say about drawn thread works... But this embroidered needlebook touched my heart and I had to follow it...

Embroidered needlework by Avó Méri, blogged here.

Luisa embroideries are only one of her needles' interests... The beauty of these stitches makes it so difficult to believe that she is also such a great knitter,  powerful with crochet hooks and an expert in quilting/patchwork. That's why her blog (de ponto em nó), her shop and workshops  are so inspiring for many Portuguese crafters.

Isabel's stitches and own pattern from her hoops' set in flickr